A: Opting for a 'mole barrier' is one of the best options to keep the moles from damaging the soil. If your lawn is placed near a wood or a field where moles are plentiful, burying sections of galvanized hardware cloth or aluminum sheathing to a depth of 24" with about 3 feet wide can take care of the problem to a larger extent. Ensure you leave about 6 inches exposed above the soil, and about 3 inches bent forward on the bottom (towards the source of the moles) to prevent moles from digging underneath.
A: Beneficial Nematodes can help you overcome this problem. These are microscopic, non-segmented worms that occur naturally in soil and are extremely easy to use. They are used as a formulation that needs to be mixed with water. The solution can be applied using a watering can; hose end, backpack, or pump sprayers; or through irrigation or misting systems. Make sure you release the formulation early in the morning or late afternoon when temperatures are cooler. Generally, 1 vial of Beneficial Nematodes will effectively treat approximately 900 sq. ft. of conventional garden rows. Make releases every 3-6 weeks or until infestation subsides. Nematodes can be stored in the refrigerator (do not freeze) for up to 2 months.
A.: Mowing the grass at the highest setting on your mower is the best, if not at least 3 inches. Each time you mow, not more than 1/3 of the grass should be cut. However, there are exceptions as some warm season grasses, such as Bermuda centipede grows dense at lower mower settings.
A.: Watering lawn should be done deeply but should not be frequented. It's better to water the lawn at once rather than spreading the activity for a period of several days. The goal for watering the lawn should be 1' per week.
A: Mulching is better as it returns nutrients to the lawn along with organic matter besides retaining water. Occasionally it may be helpful to bag if you have an annual weed infestation, or the lawn grass is growing faster between mowing cycles.
A: No. Roots growing near the surface cause thatching whereas mulching discourages thatching by augmenting the decomposition process.
A: Low spots can be filled with about a quarter inch layer of topsoil or san. Gradually fill low spots to avoid suffocating the grass. Alternatively, you can lift the sod with a shovel; fill with topsoil or san, and replace the sod to level your bumpy lawn.
A: By applying a pre-emergent herbicide (CGM for organic) prior to germination, you can prevent the annual weeds that grow from seed. Pre-emergent herbicide is also available for preventing perennial type broadleaf weeds. You can apply a post-emergent herbicide once the weeds appear or even pull the weeds by hand.
A: Core aeration is preferred to spike aeration as it removes small cores of dirt to facilitate compaction. Spike aeration on the other hand will compress some types of soil and hinder the compaction process. But, spike aeration is helpful for san type soils.
A: Usually all pre-emergents prevent germination of all types of seeds. However Tupersan (a new pre-emergent), can be used at the time of seeding to prevent weed seed germination and allowing grass seed germination.
A: There are many different types of Bermuda, but they generally fall into 2 main categories: Hybrid and Common. The hybrid varieties include Midiron, Midfield, Midlawn, Tif varieties (Tifway-I, Tifway 419, Tifway-II, Tifgreen, Tifeagle), and Sunturf, which are all types of sodden Bermuda. Other varieties fall under the common category.
A: Verify with your county extension for specific timing in your area.
- Beginning of spring – Pre-emergent application for Summer Annual Weeds.
- Cultivating Season – Fertilize every 30-45 days with 1lb N per 1000 sq ft.
- June & July – Core aerate to relieve compaction, if needed.
- Early fall – Pre-emergent application for Winter Annual Weeds.
- As and when required – Post emergent weed control and fungus control.